
Wow, so late with this update, just over a month ago Carly and I got a head start on our Easter break by heading to
France.
Keep reading to find out how we (well Carly mainly) drove over 1,500kms and explored across a significant portion of the country.
On the Friday afternoon we both left work early to catch the train from
London to
Dover where we did the ferry trip over to
Calais.
It was my second Channel crossing by ferry and once again, the English weather was foul and we didn’t manage to get a good look at the famed white chalk cliffs.
By the time we got to
Calais and found where we could rest our heads on the first night, Carly was knackered and got an early start on sleep while I went for a quick walk around the block.
The second day we picked up our little Renault and when I got my head around driving on the “other” side of the road and a little impromptu tour of Calais ferry port, we started our holiday in earnest. I should mention that whilst we had a rough idea of where we wanted to go and what we wanted to see, the only things that we had confirmed on this trip was the ferry trip, the car hire and the flight out of Nice in 10 days time. For our first stop we headed towards the coastal town of Dieppe where we arrived just in time for lunch. Refreshed, we made our way inland to Rouen, where we saw the first of many cathedrals to Notre Dame. The town of Rouen was heavily bombed during the war and this was very evident in the many scars on the buildings. Of course, Rouen is famous for another religious woman for this was where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake for heresy. At the plaza where a church to commemorate the saint, we found a strange piece of 1970s architecture. After this side trip we tried to head to the coastal rock formations at Etrat but unfortunately a heavy fog sets in on route and we abandoned this destination. The fog frustrated both of us as we drove around on poorly signed French highways looking for Pont de Normandie. Eventually we find it and found our second night in a delightful little harbour town of Honfleur.
The next morning we rewarded ourselves with a sleep-in and a slow start exploring Honfleur. The town was fantastic, lots of narrow cobbled streets with cafes, galleries and little shops. Late morning we headed towards the Normandy beaches where Operation Overlord was carried out on D-Day, some 60 years ago. Carly and I made our stop at the code named Sword beach, one of three, where British, Canadian and other non-American allies made their landfall. It was a strange feeling being there on a sunny but cold windy day, on a site that had seemed so horrific decades ago. Driving along the coast, we saw a number of memorials left to commemorate the losses. The next destination was a brief stop-over at Mulberry Harbour; a harbour built using concrete caissons to enable the deployment of troops, armour and supplies for the war. The caissons were large boxes constructed in England, and towed towards Normandy then sunk deliberately as a part of Operation Overlord. After all this modern history, we headed towards Bayeux where an amazing 1,000 year old, 70m long tapestry illustrating the invasion of England by William the Conqueror. It was incredibly well preserved and the embroidery was still very clear after all these years. With plenty of afternoon light we headed towards Brittany where we would stay at the start of the causeway to Le Mont Saint Michel.
We decided to get an early start on Mont Saint Michel before all the tourists arrived. The abbey was just as I remembered it, from when Eddy and I visited almost 2 years ago. Carly and I got separated when we were touring the main abbey, so after running through every room, including starting the tour again I found a smiling Carly waiting for me in the
gift shop…somehow I had missed her in my frantic search. At least I had been through the abbey previously. We got a few more photos outside on the meadows, with me terrorising the local sheep trying to get a “postcard photo” with the sheep in front of the citadel. After a quick lunch break, Carly took over the driving duties and brought us to Blois a town in the heart of the Loire Valley. We managed to find a warm converted chateau for the night across the road from the main Blois Chateau.
On the fourth day, we started our Chateaux and winery tour of the Loire Valley. The first stop was Chateau Chenonceau, which was a beautiful palace constructed over the Cher River. During the drive, I managed to catch glimpses of a number of other smaller chateaux just off our path. Chenonceau was amazing, sitting on beautifully manicured grounds; the palace itself was no less decadent. The second destination was Chateau Cheverny, or otherwise known by Tintin fans as Marlinspike. On the way
we stopped by local vineyard and had the most delightful white wine, and we just had to pick up souvenirs. Unlike the first chateau, this one was much more homely, the trappings of an aristocratic life were still in each room, furniture, toys family photographs. There is a pack of hunting dogs on the estate, unfortunately when we were there the dogs where merely napping in the midday sun. You’d think that Carly and I would have been tired of castles after these but we had saved the best for last, in fact
Chateau Chambord is supposed to the grandest of chateaux in the Loire Valley. When you think that its’ original owner was almost the king of France, and the central double helix staircase of the palace was designed by none other than Leonardo da Vinci, you can be sure it’s pretty cool. In the afternoon, we returned back to Blois and had an early night as we had a big drive down towards the French Riviera the next day.
Bridge Day! I woke Carly up early as usual…not really intentionally but I did but we managed to get on the road before the traffic started. Today we would be driving more than 650kms south through France, actually Carly did all the driving I merely held the map. We know the day would be filled with all sorts of funny sights as one of the first traffic lights we pulled up to, we saw a kangaroo sign...the kind that you see in oz. Well I kept my eyes open, I didn’t see Skippy. We drove down the middle through the volcano region, it wasn’t the French Alps, but when we got driving through the mountains and the rain turned to sleet then to snow, it was really beautiful. Driving 120km/hr through falling snow also had a really cool effect, for those that haven’t done it before, the white snow flies past you, and the effect is similar to going lightspeed in Star Wars. The little Renault went through fine and in
no time we were driving through the steep gorges of the Tarn Valley towards our first major bridge of the day. The Millau Viaduct almost came upon us by surprise, unfortunately in awe at seeing the bridge; I missed the turn off to the specifically designed look out. In fact we actually pulled over on an emergency stop to quickly take some snaps. What we didn’t count on was the speed that the French highway police would turn up and tell us off. Well after much kissing ass and playing up the tourist thing, we got off with a warning. We pulled aside at the next turn off to try and take the photos that you see now. After some lunch and a break, Carly was feeling much better and we headed towards Nimes where we found our second famous bridge of the day. The UNESCO heritage listed, 2000 year old roman aqueduct built by Marcus Agrippa did not disappoint at all. I had mixed feelings when I found graffiti carved into the stonework…but dated 1839…so is it still vandalism or part of the heritage value? Our final push for the evening took us into the fortress town of Avignon. Luckily we found a motel without too much trouble, the hotelier was the funniest guy. When we made our standard inquiry of “parlez vous anglais?” he responded in perfect accent free English “no, but can you speak French?” After the long day that Carly and I had, that just cracked us up to no end. We finished the evening with a late supper and wine on the square.
After a sleep in for a change, we headed towards the town centre for a brief look-see before continuing our travels. Avignon was very different from the Loire Valley that we had just left. Instead of lavish palaces for dandy French aristocrats, this town was surrounded by a massive block stone wall and even the Pope’s palace looked very imposing and fortress like. Just outside the palace we saw the most delightful busker, who was able to brighten up the bleak place. The other attraction of the town is Le Pont D’Avignon, which is now is only part of the original bridge, the rest of was washed away hundreds of years ago. On leaving Avignon we decided to head towards Arles where Van Gogh painted some of this famous works, unfortunately we took a wrong turn on the highway and headed to Aix-en-Provence to see works by Cézanne instead. Aix-en-Provence was very much a student town; while we had lunch near a fountain we finally took a break and watched people walk by for a while. We did find a gallery for Cezanne, but it was still being constructed and they were yet to secure works of the original master nevertheless it was still an enjoyable cultural afternoon. The last destination of the day was to be the port city of Marseille, where we stayed at a youth hostel near the beach. That evening we got to know Carly’s roommate who was from Montreal and had fallen onto a mishap earlier that day.
The next morning started with a short stroll on the nearby beach before catching a ferry to Chateau d’If. Whilst we were waiting for the ferry to arrive we checked out the fish market by the harbour. Some of the fish were so fresh that they were still alive and flapping around in the shallow basins, we also watched an octopus crawl all over an annoyed stall owners produce. The trip out across the bay was pretty uneventful, when we arrived at the chateau though I could imagine why Dumas chose this location to set his novel “Count of Monte Cristo”. This place is a fortress jail on an island…pretty secure, all you need is sharks or mutant sea bass with laser beams to stop escaping prisoners from swimming away. We paused for a quick lunch before a steep climb up a hill to see yet another cathedral to Notre Dame. There was such a panoramic view of Marseille at the top however which made it all worth while. Later that afternoon we began our drive down the coastal road around Cote d’Azur. We headed towards the little town of Cassis, unfortunately we were unable to find suitable accommodation in the town, but luckily found a roadside motel seemingly in the middle of nowhere.
Another early start today as we realised the previous night we had a lot of ground to cover before getting to Nice. The coastal drive was fantastic, much of the coastline was different coloured cliffs falling in to a bright blue ocean. In no time at all we found ourselves driving into the trendy town of St Tropez. We decided to have a break for a coffee along the marina, pausing to look through paintings by local artists. Afterwards we pushed on along the coastal route, breaking briefly to have a picnic lunch on the side of the road. In the afternoon we headed towards Grasse, where we learnt all about perfume making and how this little town in Provence plays such a important on making everyone smell nice. In the evening we checked ourselves into a Nice hostel (hehe) which was converted from a chapel.
Sleeping in for a change, we visited the flower markets where we all tried fresh sea anemone before heading for a day trip to Monaco. I had the feeling that I got more out of our trip to Monaco than my travel companions, I guess having worked on a major project off the coast of Monte Carlo helped pique my interest. We saw all sorts of cool stuff, like the famous Monte Carlo casino…and the numerous expensive cars parked outside, the Grand Prix track (well it’s only a road race anyway, but I’ve been on it now), the grandiose marina with all the super and mega yachts. I went for a bit of a walk down this principality’s newest toy; a 300m long floating breakwater extension to the marina, which is also a 4 level carpark, built in one piece in Spain and transported and anchored just in 2005. Sounds geeky, but for a maritime engineer, it was really cool. We spent a few hours exploring the amazing aquarium which was smaller than London’s but had better critters. Outside, we walked around the palace and the old town on the top of the hill which is so exclusive that only cars of the residents are allowed there. The trip home was a bit of a killjoy though, as Carly battled through crawling traffic for hours all the way back to Nice.
On the last serious day of the holiday, I decided to explore Nice on foot in glorious sunshine. In an attempt to get cultural, I hoofed it to the Matisse museum, unfortunately my trusty Lonely Planet failed to inform me that the museum was closed for most of the year. Well, not deterred I changed direction towards the Chagall museum instead. For a artist that knew nothing about, and all thanks for Carly for the recommendation, I thought the pieces were pretty interesting. On a roll I thought I’d try the museum of Modern Arts, but once again the Easter break defeated me. The rest of the sites of Nice were well pretty cool (ha got you there). It was a funny feeling, little bit of loneliness almost, going around on my own like I usually did on these types of trips I guess I got used to having Carly’s company. I ended the afternoon with a stroll along the promenade above the pebbly beach before heading back to the hostel to pack for the return trip to London.

In retrospect it was an amazing holiday, with Carly. It was definitely a very different way for me to travel, before this, I hadn’t done such a long trip with a friend before. Whilst I’m sure I bugged her with my incessant rambling about engineering she managed to break through me and in turn I learn a lot about myself and our friendship in return. I had a great time and despite the pace of the trip…I can now confidently say that I’ve explored a significant portion of France.